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New York Times wine critic Eric Asimov has a piece this morning about boxed wines, and concludes that while “the quality of the boxed wines sold in this country has been uniformly bad,” a change seems to be taking place. Based on a testing session with a number of critics, he writes, “without a doubt, the choices are far superior to what was available five years ago. Among the wines we liked best, we found more than a few that we’d be happy to serve as a house pour, especially among the reds. We liked the boxes brought in by two small importers who specialize in French wines: the Wineberry Boxes from Wineberry America, and From the Tank from Jenny & François Selections, who focus on natural wines.”

Now, there is a downside to boxed wines: “Unopened boxed wines have a shorter shelf life. The box and bag are more porous to air than an unopened bottle, so they must be consumed relatively young. What’s more, because they are so inexpensive, they may not be handled or stored with great care. Heat and vibration can be hard on whites in particular, which is one possible reason the whites didn’t perform as well as the reds.”
KC's View:
I’m just getting used to screw tops. I know I’m not ready for three-liter boxed wines.

There was, by the way, one part of the story that I found really surprising. Asimov writes:

“I said these wines were cheap, but we indeed had one outlier. It was our No. 3, Dominio IV’s Love Lies Bleeding, a 2009 pinot noir from the Dundee Hills in the Willamette Valley of Oregon. It cost $90, almost twice as much as the next most expensive box on the list, Wineberry’s 2010 Bourgogne Blanc from Baronne du Chatelard, which was $48.”