retail news in context, analysis with attitude

The New Yorker, one of the best magazines in America, has written about many things, and over the years MNB has highlighted a number of them.

But this week, the story that drew my attention was unexpected - it was about the pleasures of iceberg lettuce.

An excerpt:

“There are many categories of salad snob - the ingredient minimalists, the chop evangelists, the dressing-goes-in-the-bowl-first brigade - but perhaps the most vocal, and the most misguided, are those dedicated to the denigration of iceberg lettuce. To its detractors, iceberg is the avatar of commodity gastronomy - ‘the polyester of lettuces’ is a popular gibe. The influential Times food editor Craig Claiborne famously loathed it. ‘It is omnipresent,’ Alice Waters, goddess of the farmer’s market, sniffed in a 2001 interview. ‘It doesn’t have a season,’ she said. ‘It doesn’t have a sense of place.’ The only thing iceberg really has going for it is durability, this line of thinking goes—it’s a lettuce for growers, shippers, warehousers, and sellers, not a lettuce for eaters. But, like its glacial namesake, iceberg lettuce has a lot more going on beneath the surface.”

It is a good piece … and it comes with recipes. Including one, go figure, for Chilled Iceberg Soup. You can read it here.
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